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淺談不用原型樣板制作銅盆領(lǐng)

來源：北京紳凱服裝   瀏覽：51   【字體： 大 中 小】 發(fā)布日期： 2016/9/1 22:14:24 打印

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不用樣板翻作的銅盆領(lǐng)的領(lǐng)座高度與用樣板制作的一樣。但是，用來計算后中心處領(lǐng)座高度的公式有所改變。

1英寸（2.5CM）領(lǐng)座———從后中心線向上量1英寸（2.5CM）。

3/4 英寸（1.9CM）領(lǐng)座———從后中心線向上量2英寸（5.1CM）。

1/2英寸（1.3CM）領(lǐng)座———從后中心線向上量3 英寸（7.6CM）。

1/4英寸（0.6CM）領(lǐng)座———從后中心線向上量4 英寸（10.2CM）。

圖1
A 如“一片式兩用領(lǐng)”圖 1，在獲得領(lǐng)圍尺寸之前。先在樣板上調(diào)整領(lǐng)圍線。
B 剪一邊長大約為15 英寸（38.1CM）的正方形紙。
C 在紙的左邊，從紙的底邊開始量取大約 1英寸（2.5CM）；畫兩條相互垂直的線。標注“后中心線”和“標準線”（如圖）。

D在后中心線和標準線的交點處向上量 1英寸（2.5CM），過此點畫一條水平線，長度等于后領(lǐng)圍線尺寸。標上標記號“A”肩頸點。
E 在 A 點放一直尺，并旋轉(zhuǎn)直尺，直到等于前領(lǐng)圍線長度處接觸標準線，在交點處標注“B”。
F  連接 A、B，作為前領(lǐng)窩弧線長。



圖 2
A 用曲線板將領(lǐng)圍線在 A點劃順（虛線）。
B 過 B 點畫一短線與標準線成 45*角。標為“前中心線”。
C 在后中心線上量取設(shè)計要求的領(lǐng)子寬度。如圖：2 1/2英寸（6.4CM）。從后中心線到前中心線畫一條領(lǐng)圍線的平行線。
D 在領(lǐng)子前部設(shè)計款式造型，畫出弧線或領(lǐng)尖。
E 參照“用樣板制作銅盆領(lǐng)”圖 1 和圖2 完成紙樣。
圖 3、圖 4 和圖 5



​其它領(lǐng)座高度的領(lǐng)子制作步驟同圖 1 和圖2討論的一樣。
唯一的不同點是后中心線上的領(lǐng)座較高。
款 B
該款表示在前中心處開啟的不重疊的銅盆領(lǐng)

The collar height of the copper basin collar which is not made by the sample is the same as the template. However, the formula used to calculate the height of the center at the center of the center has been changed.
1 inches (2.5CM) collar seat - from the rear center line up to 1 inches (2.5CM).
3/4 inch (1.9CM) collar seat - from the rear center line up to 2 inches (5.1CM).
1/2 inch (1.3CM) collar seat - from the rear center line up to 3 inches (7.6CM).
1/4 inch (0.6CM) collar seat - from the rear center line up to 4 inches (10.2CM).
Figure 1
A such as "a piece of dual-use collar" figure 1, before getting the collar size. First adjust the collar line on the sample.
B cut the side length of about 15 inches (38.1CM) of square paper.
C in the paper to the left, to measure approximately 1 inches from the bottom of the paper (2.5CM); draw two vertical lines. Mark the "post center line" and "standard line" (Figure).
At the intersection of D in center line and standard line to 1 inches (2.5CM), the draw a horizontal line length equal to the rear collar line size. Marking the number "A" shoulder neck point.
E A has been put in the feet, and rotating ruler, until the front collar line length is equal to the standard contact line, at the intersection marked "B".
The F connection A, B, as a former long neck line.
Figure 2
A with the curve of the general line in the A points in a row along the line (dotted line).
B B points in line with the standard 45* a short-term angle. Front center line".
C in the center line of the design requirements of the collar width. Figure: 2 6.4CM inches (1/2). Draw a line from the center line to the front line.
D in the front of the collar design style, draw the curve or collar.
E reference "with the production model of copper pots" in Figure 1 and Figure 2 pattern.
Figure 3, figure 4 and figure 5
The other collar height of the collar is the same as that of Figure 1 and Figure 2.
The only difference is that the center line of the collar is higher.
B
This section represents a non overlapping copper basin collar at the front center.



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